IT WAS THE EARLIEST ENGLISH COLONISTS WHO
introduced muddles (“a mess of fish”), mulls, and other robust seafood soups and stews to the barrier islands that separate North Carolina’s Pamlico Sound from the Atlantic Ocean, and today the tradition continues all along the remote Outer Banks. I’ve had muddles so thick with fish and shellfish you could almost eat them with a fork, but the best I’ve tasted were much more like this amazingly light, herby concoction, which tastes so good on a cold winter’s night with coleslaw and some form of cornbread. I’ve heard that for one style of muddle, eggs are poached in the broth and served on top the soup. Sounds a bit bizarre to me, but I’d still love to try that.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 4 slices bacon
• 3 medium onions, diced
• 2 celery ribs, diced
• 1 small red bell pepper, seeded and diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 3 medium ripe tomatoes, diced
• 2 cups bottled clam broth
• 2 cups water
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• Tabasco sauce to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/2 pound fresh grouper, red snapper, or other nonoily white fish fillets, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1/4 pound medium shrimp, shelled and deveined
• 1/4 pound fresh sea scallops, quartered

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a large, heavy pot, fry the bacon over moderate heat until crisp. Drain on paper towels, crumble, and set aside.
2. Add the diced onions, celery, bell pepper, and minced garlic to the pot. Cook, stirring, until very soft, about 5 minutes.
3. Add the diced tomatoes, clam broth, water, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, salt, pepper, dried thyme, and bay leaf to the pot.
4. Bring the mixture to a low simmer, cover, and cook for 1 hour.
5. Add the fish fillets, shrimp, and scallops to the pot. Return to a simmer and cook until the fish begins to flake, about 8 minutes.
6. Serve the muddle in deep soup bowls.
7. Sprinkle crumbled bacon over the top of each portion.

NOTE

• Adjust the seasoning with additional Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper to taste.