RAVIGOTER IN FRENCH MEANS “TO INVIGORATE,” and the earliest Creole cooks took the word at face value when they came up with this fiery crab salad that traditionally contains not only horseradish but two styles of hot mustard. Although a few venerable New Orleans restaurants such as Antoine’s and Commander’s Palace still serve crabmeat ravigote, the delectable appetizer is generally not as popular as it once was, due, most likely, to dubious efforts by certain trendy chefs to transform Creole cuisine at the expense of many classic tastes. No matter, for I’m
convinced that, in the long run, dishes such as crabmeat ravigote will be around long after most of the new conceits are forgotten. And, by the way, this also makes a delightful luncheon salad.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 3⁄4 cup mayonnaise
• 1⁄4 cup Creole mustard
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• 2 scallions (part of green tops included), minced
• 1 hard-boiled large egg, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon chopped drained capers
• 11⁄2 teaspoons prepared horseradish
• 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 11⁄2 pounds fresh lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage
• Bibb lettuce leaves, shredded

INSTRUCTIONS

1. In a large bowl, combine the mayonnaise, Creole mustard, dry mustard, minced scallions, chopped hard-boiled egg, capers, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper.
2. Mix the ingredients until well blended.
3. Add the fresh lump crabmeat to the bowl.
4. Gently mix the crabmeat with the other ingredients until it is well coated, being careful not to break it up.
5. Cover the bowl and chill the crabmeat mixture for about 1 hour.
6. Serve the chilled crabmeat mixture on beds of shredded lettuce.