WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Tamales are small, moist corn cakes that can be stuffed with a variety of fillings—usually shredded chicken, pork, or beef, or a combination of cheese and chiles. The filled corn cakes are wrapped in corn husks and steamed. On the Mexican table, they can either be served as breakfast or as the main course at dinner, served alongside beans and other hearty dishes like roasted meat or poultry. Often served during the holidays, tamales are time[1]consuming to prepare, with families gathering together in the kitchen to pitch in. We wanted to simplify the process while staying true to the tamales’subtle but hearty flavor and light texture.  We started with the corn dough that comprises the bulk of the tamale. Although masa dough (made from corn kernels that have been cooked with slaked lime, ground to a flour, and mixed with water) is traditional, it can be difficult to find in many parts of the United States. Instead, we turned to widely available masa harina, but found that when used alone, it was too fine-textured and the corn flavor was bland. We tried adding both cornmeal and grits to supplement flavor and texture. Although cornmeal had great corn flavor, the texture of the tamales made with it reminded tasters of corn muffins. Grits, on the other hand, had a more granular texture similar to authentic tamales and didn’t sacrifice any of the flavor. Fresh corn is a common addition in many tamale recipes, and we thought it would reinforce the corn flavor and provide textural contrast. We experimented with varying amounts and landed on 1 cup. We also tested tamales made with frozen corn; tasters couldn’t distinguish the difference between frozen and fresh kernels, so we opted to call for frozen since they are available year-round and are easy to prepare (no cutting kernels off of
cobs). For the fat in the dough, we tried several options: vegetable shortening, vegetable oil, butter, and lard. In the end, the vegetable shortening and vegetable oil gave the tamales an unpleasant, artificial flavor. We preferred the traditional combination of lard supplemented with butter for richness and flavor. To prevent the dough from cooking up with a hard, dense texture, we added baking powder and used a food-processor mixing method to incorporate some air into the dough. Traditional Mexican tamales are usually wrapped in dried and soaked corn husks, although in some regions, banana leaves are the common choice. We chose to work with widely available corn husks, and soaked a few extras to make up for any that were cracked or too small. When it came time to fold the tamales, most of the recipes we found required tying each one closed, a process we found we could do without by simply folding the tamales and placing them with the seam sides facing the edges of the steamer basket. With our dough and cooking method settled, we turned our attention to creating flavorful fillings for our tamales: a rich red chile chicken filling and a smoky-spicy chipotle beef filling. Quick and simple moles, chile-based sauces found throughout Mexico, served as savory poaching liquids as well as flavorful sauces. For the chicken filling, hearty chicken thighs worked best for the long cooking time. A combination of ancho and New Mexican chiles resulted in a sauce with subtle spice and sweetness. As for the beef filling, blade steaks turned meltingly tender with the extended cooking, and tasters liked smoky, spicy flavor of chipotle chiles, which enhanced the beef’s already rich flavor and gave the sauce some punch. Once cooked, the tamales peeled easily away from the husks, revealing warm, moist corn cakes with rich, flavorful fillings.

Makes 18 tamales; serves 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS

• 4 dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, and torn into ½-inch pieces (1 cup)
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 6 garlic cloves, minced
• 1½ tablespoons minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon sugar, plus extra as needed
• ¾ teaspoon ground cumin
• ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
• ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
• Salt and pepper
• 3 cups beef broth
• 1¾ pounds top blade steaks, trimmed
• 1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Toast anchos in 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant, 2 to 6 minutes; transfer to bowl.
2. Heat oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, chipotle, oregano, sugar, cumin, cinnamon, cloves, 1 teaspoon salt, and toasted chiles and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in broth and simmer until slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. Transfer mixture to blender and process until smooth, about 20 seconds; return to skillet.
3. Season beef with salt and pepper, nestle into skillet, and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until beef is very tender, about 1½ hours.
4. Transfer beef to carving board and let cool slightly. Using 2 forks, shred beef into small pieces. Stir vinegar into sauce and season with salt, pepper, and sugar to taste. Toss shredded beef with 1 cup sauce. Reheat remaining sauce and serve with tamales.