Dried morels are one of my favorite splurges. In truth, I prefer dried to fresh ones for this luxurious sauce. Besides having a more intense flavor, they hold their shape better as the sauce reduces, and the sauce clings to their unusual crenellated surfaces.

Makes 3 to 4 cups

INGREDIENTS

• 3 cups boiling water
• 2 ounces small dried morel mushrooms, picked over to clean
• ½ cup minced shallots
• 4½ tablespoons butter
• 2 large garlic cloves, minced
• 2 cups dry marsala or cream sherry
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
• 3 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or tarragon
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Soak the morels in boiling water in a medium bowl for at least 45 minutes, or up to several hours.
2. Lift out the morels with a slotted spoon, squeeze dry, and reserve. Strain the soaking liquid into a small saucepan, leaving behind any dirt or debris in the bottom of the bowl. Bring to a boil and boil until reduced to about ½ cup, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
3. Sauté the shallots in butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat until soft and golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, then add the morels and cook over low heat for 3 minutes more, stirring often.
4. Add the marsala, increase the heat to a low boil, and cook for 10 minutes, or until the mixture just starts to dry out.
5. Add the reduced mushroom liquid and the cream, bring to a simmer, and simmer until the sauce has the thickness of heavy cream. (The sauce can be kept warm for up to 30 minutes before serving.)
6. Add the lemon juice, chives, and thyme to the sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve.

COOK’S NOTE

• If you are roasting the meat without the salt crust, pour off any fat from the roasting pan, add 1 cup of the marsala to the pan, and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
• Add to the sauce when adding the reduced mushroom soaking liquid.