These are a lot easier to make than tortelli because they have no pasta wrappers.

Serves 12

INGREDIENTS

• 3 bunches spinach (2-3 pounds), washed
• 2 pounds whole-milk ricotta cheese
• 3 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• ½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) butter
• 20 fresh sage leaves, coarsely chopped

PREPARATION

1. Cook the spinach in a large pot of boiling salted water until wilted, about 30 seconds. With a large skimmer, remove the spinach and drain; keep the water on the stove for cooking the dumplings. Let the spinach cool slightly, then squeeze until quite dry and finely chop.
2. Transfer the spinach to a large bowl, add the ricotta, 2 cups of the Parmigiano, 1½ teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, the nutmeg, parsley, and eggs, and beat well to combine. Cover and refrigerate until ready to make the dumplings. (The spinach mixture can be refrigerated for 1 day.)
3. To make the dumplings, scoop tablespoons of the mixture onto a lightly floured surface and roll each one under your palms to form a cylinder about 1½ inches long and ½ inch in diameter. Arrange on a floured tray or sheet. (The dumplings can be covered with a dish towel and refrigerated for up to 6 hours before cooking.)
4. Bring the spinach water back to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, add the dumplings in batches, and cook until they rise to the surface, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove with a skimmer, drain well, and place on a platter.
5. Meanwhile, heat 6 tablespoons of the butter and half of the sage in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until the butter is melted and the sage is fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add half of the cooked dumplings and toss in the butter for 1 to 2 minutes to heat through, then add ½ cup of the remaining cheese and toss and shake until well coated. Transfer to a warm serving platter and repeat with the remaining cooked dumplings, 6 tablespoons butter, sage, and ½ cup cheese.
6. Taste for salt and pepper and serve at once, with more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano alongside.

COOK’S NOTE

• If you are a skilled tortelli maker, then by all means use the dumpling mixture as the filling. In Emilia-Romagna, tortelli are usually made in 2-inch squares.
• If making tortelli, leave the eggs out of the dumpling mixture, and serve as above with butter, sage, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.