Birmingham Barbecued Veal

THE ONLY TIME I EVER HAD BARBECUED VEAL IN THE South was at a lavish wedding reception in Birmingham, Alabama, but it was a dish I’ll never forget. Generally, veal has never been a popular meat in Dixie, possibly because, till just a few years ago, Southern veal was more often “baby beef” than the […]

Honey Barbecued Pork Loin

OKAY, I KNOW THAT PORK LOIN IS NOT THE BEST CUT of meat for barbecuing, since it’s so lean and lacks the flavor and sturdiness of a fatty, husky shoulder or rack of ribs, but at least some prejudice went out the window when I tasted this luscious loin prepared by a few good folks […]

Georgia Barbecued Pork Chops

SOME SAY THAT IN THE COMPLEX WORLD OF BARBECUE sauces, North Carolina is the vinegar–hot pepper state, South Carolina the mustard state, and Georgia the ketchup state. While the theory is a bit too hypothetical, what is true is that Georgians do seem to prefer their sauces considerably sweeter than do their northern neighbors. And […]

Barbecued Shredded Pork

LIKE SEVERAL OTHER MODERN INNOVATIONS IN MY Southern kitchen, this one was inspired by Louis Osteen’s modification of classic French rillettes at his renowned restaurant on Pawleys Island, South Carolina. The dish is quite simply pork cooked partly in its own fat, shredded, to an almost unctuous consistency, and served with a barbecue sauce. So […]

Barbecued Spareribs with Plum Sauce

THE GREAT BARBECUE TRADITION CONTINUES TO evolve in the South, and one fairly recent innovation is the popular use of relatively thick, sometimes syrupy basting sauces flavored with any number of fresh fruits and berries. Mangoes, oranges, guavas, apricots, plums, blackberries, raspberries—all can transform an ordinary barbecue sauce into a whole new, often exotic complement […]

Oven Barbecued Spareribs

THIS RECIPE PROVES THAT PORK SPARERIBS DON’T necessarily have to be cooked on a grill over a wood or charcoal fire—a good thing to know when the weather bureau is predicting torrential rain and you’ve promised guests barbecued ribs. Alas, the ribs won’t have that inimitable smoky flavor of the grill, but this complex sauce […]