When a farm raises cows for milk and cream, it also produces calves. In holistically and ethically managed small dairies, those calves remain with their mothers, drinking milk and eating grass, for 5 to 6 months; then they are harvested for veal. As there is support for raw, grass-fed, and ethically managed dairy farms, there likewise exists a call to support small-scale, humanely raised veal, for one cannot exist without the other.
Pasture-raised veal is not pale and lackluster like its industrially raised counterpart; rather, it is pink and rosy. It tastes mild and sweet, with a texture that is much more tender than that of beef. Here its mild qualities find balance with the stronger and more assertive flavors of rosemary and crispy shallots.

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS

• 4 veal cutlets (4 to 6 ounces each)
• ½ cup high-extraction wheat flour, rice flour, or unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1½ teaspoons finely ground unrefined sea salt
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons bacon fat
• 2 sprigs rosemary
• 3 shallots, sliced paper thin

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Whisk the flour, salt, and pepper together in a mixing bowl.
2. Dredge the veal in the seasoned flour until very well coated and set it aside until you need it.
3. Melt the bacon fat in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat.
4. Drop in the sprigs of rosemary and fry them in the hot fat for about 2 minutes, until they release their fragrance and the needles become crisp.
5. Pluck out the rosemary and discard.
6. Stir in the shallots and fry them, stirring from time to time, until they brown and begin to crisp a bit, 6 to 8 minutes.
7. Remove the shallots from the pan.
8. Add the veal to the pan and fry the cutlets for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until browned and cooked through but still moist.
9. Plate the veal and top with the crispy shallots