EGGS POACHED IN FIERY TOMATO SAUCE
The soft, buttery orange yolk of the egg melts into the fresh tomato sauce, which offers just a little bit of a kick thanks to the inclusion of crushed red pepper flakes. I prepare this dish often in the summertime, especially for lunch; I pair it with a simple green salad spiked with basil and […]
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SALMON ROE
Eggs and roe make a natural pairing. Salmon roe brings the essence of the sea, and the chicken eggs temper that direct briny and faintly oily flavor to create something softer and delightfully creamy. Both pair nicely with dill and with sour cream. Salmon roe is extraordinarily rich in vitamins A and K, the former […]
YOGURT AND CHEDDAR CHEESE SOUFFLÉ WITH CHIVES
This soufflé has a gentle sharpness owing to the combination of yogurt and sharp cheddar cheese. I like the way these two flavors combine with the soft onion-like flavor of fresh chives. Use the sharpest cheddar you can find. SERVES 4 TO 6 INGREDIENTS 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons finely shredded sharp cheddar cheese […]
FRESH HERB FRITTATA
In spring, when the farmers’ fields offer very little, I find both eggs and fresh herbs in abundance at our farmers market. Although a frittata makes a lovely breakfast, I prefer to serve it as a light lunch alongside a salad of crisp just-picked lettuce and young radishes. I make this frittata with chives, parsley, […]
SHIRRED EGGS WITH GRAVLAX AND ASPARAGUS
On weekends when family arrives to our little mountain town, I often prepare shirred eggs to greet them in the morning as they tumble into the kitchen hungry for breakfast. I butter individual ramekins and drop in a bit of whatever’s in season: chopped tomato and basil in summer, mushrooms in autumn, or a bit […]
SIMPLE HERB CHEESE
This simple fresh cheese requires no starter culture or rennet and instead relies on the acidic nature of white vinegar to cause the milk solids to separate from the whey. Its taste is sweet, milky, and mild, so I like to add fresh herbs to the cheese, though you can skip them if you prefer […]
SLIP
Slip is a sweet clabbered milk made with rennet; however, it lacks the complex acidity of cheeses and other clabbered milks because it requires no bacterial starter culture that would otherwise eliminate its natural sweetness through fermentation. Popular in the nineteenth century, slip was traditionally served in the summer and spring months, when dairy cows […]
SKYR
Though you might think of skyr as yogurt, it is more accurately described as a soft cheese because it is made with rennet, a complex of enzymes that coagulates liquid milk and causes it to separate into curds and whey. Skyr is traditionally made from skimmed milk, milk from which the cream has been separated […]
BONNY CLABBER
The tradition of preparing bonny clabber—a wild-fermented dairy product eaten like yogurt—was nearly lost in the last century although it was once enormously popular in the hills of Appalachia and in Scotland. As the pasteurization of milk took hold and lawmakers limited the sale of raw milk, bonny clabber fell from favor. Bonny clabber can […]
SOUR CREAM
I use sour cream with a heavy hand in my cooking, often spooning a dollop into soups or dressing vegetables and fruit with it. Its billowy softness reminds me of whipped cream, and its velvety tartness balances the fiery heat of chiles while also enlivening the earthy flavor of beans and lentils. Like most cultured […]